I was successful in assembling my new Intel Core2 Duo computer and getting it up and running. It was assembled using a new Foxconn FX-629MBK MicroATX Mini Tower w/ 24 Pin 350 Watt AGI Power Supply purchased at 3btech.com (http://3btech.net/fofxmimitow2.html) $56.99 with free shipping. I do not use the included 350 W power supply. It came with one 80 mm case fan which I also didn't use. I've installed a Yate Loon Medium Speed (1600 RPM) 120mm Fan for the front, right in front of the three hard drives. For the rear, I've use a Super Red brand 80 mm X 25 mm thermostatically controled fan. Both fans has tachometer output, so their speed can be monitor against failure by sounding an alarm. This case can accommodate up to 120 mm X 25 mm fan in the front and up to 90mm X 25mm case fan in the rear. For the front fan I also built myself a single transistor speed control to keep down the fan noise. As a compromise between noise and airflow, I had it set to run the front fan at 1300 rpm. This transistorized control can adjust the voltage from 6 to 12 V. The reason I why I designed it with a setting that has minimum of 6 volt is to keep the fan from stalling even on the lowest setting. At the lowest setting the fan is inaudible yet enough to keep the hard drives and video card nice and cool. The circuitry consists of a single transistor with a half watt 2.2 K. resister plus a 2.2 K. potentiometer. I purposely chose this case because it has the capability of having both an intake and exhaust fan. To me, I feel it is very important especially with this up to 95 W high-powered graphics card which I chose for this computer. Another reason why I chose this case is also because it has an adjustable snorkel on the side panel for air intake to cool the CPU with cooler room temperature air. To keep down noise, I've also modified the drive bay by applying silicone rubber for rubber mounting the hard drives. What I did for that was to slightly spread the two side panel and enlarge one of the mounting screw point to about 5/16" diameter then apply silicone rubber on the edge of the hole as well as part of the inner side rails where the hard drives rests on. The way I had this done is to keep the hard drives from touching any of the metal along the sides. I did this to all four of the hard drive bays, although only three are usable at this point because of my long 9 1/4 inch video card. For both the front and the rear fans, I had the fan grilles removed. For replacements, I made better less restrictive grilles using quarter inch wire mesh.

This inexpensive MSI G31M3-F LGA 775 Intel G31 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard, turn out to be an excellent choice for me to construct a Core 2 Duo computer using the Intel E 8500 3.17 GHz, 1333 MHz front side bus dual core CPU. With better quality memory such as PC 2 8000 instead of what I have which is PC 2 6400, it is possible to overclock the CPU to 4 GHz or more in many cases using the stock Intel heatsink and fan. Also overclocking ability would have been better with the newer Core 2 Duo CPU, E0 instead of the earlier C0 which I have. From my experience with this motherboard, overclocking can be easily done in the bios by increasing the front side bus. The bus speed can be increased up to a maximum of 600 MHz in the bios. My CPU standard bus speed is 333 MHz. The only shortcome I have to say about this motherboard when it comes to overclocking is to the CPU core voltage is not adjustable in the bios. Fortunately, the memory voltage can be increased for stability when overclocked. The most I like about this motherboard is that it uses dual channel memory architecture using Intel chipsets unlike many inexpensive motherboards. It's two memory slots can accommodate up to 4 GB of RAM but unfortunately on a 32-bit operating system it can only recognize 3 GB of RAM. In a way, it doesn't matter to me too much because memory is relatively cheap today. The northbridge chip is the Intel G31 and the southbridge chip is the Intel CH7. Overclocking can also be done using the MSI included software Duo Core Center. This software also monitor the CPU plus two case fans against failure by sounding an alarm if the RPM drops below 1000 rpm.

Personally, I found it to be much better to use bios to overclock this computer then to use this software. When I try using this software to overclock, it cause the computer to freeze up. Since I'm not really interested in overclocking this computer, I did give it a try anyway. In the bios, I've adjusted the front side bus a little bit pushing the CPU to 3.25 GHz. The computer appeared to be slightly faster but perfectly stable at that speed. Also, when setting Smart Fan in the bios in conjunction with this software you have to set Smart Fan to a minimum of 75% of maximum speed to keep the software from setting off the low CPU fan alarm. Any time when the CPU fan drops below 1000 RPM the alarm sounds. This software comes in handy when you want to monitor your computer such as temperature, voltages and CPU speed. When team with the Intel E8500 Core 2 Duo and Pny G-Forge 9600GT PCI express video card, this computer is extremely fast and extremely cool running. Under normal clocking the CPU has a maximum of 65 W of power dissipation and extremely power efficient. The stock Intel heatsink is very skimpy in comparison to most previous ones. This computer appears to be approximately 2 2/3 times faster than my old 3.4 GHz Pentium 4 Prescott computer yet runs much cooler and uses less electricity. I've did a comparison benchmarking testing using Sandra benchmarking software between the two computers.

Right now, I have windows XP Pro installed on this system. In the future, I will probably try this system on Windows Vista on a separate hard drive as dual boot configuration. When configuring dual boot, it's much better using separate hard drive for each operating system for independence from one another. Also when doing so, be sure to disconnect the other boot drive with an operating system when installing Windows. Otherwise there's a possibility that Windows may try to install the boot loader on the other hard drive. When that happens. You will not be able to take out the other drive and expect the remaining operating system to function. With this setup, you can leave either drive and the computer it will fully functions independently.
The MSI G31M3-F LGA 775 Intel G31 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail was purchased at newegg.com ( http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130177 ) for this computer. This motherboard is designed for windows Vista as well as windows XP. The retail kit come with one parallel cable, one SATA cable, the in out panel for the back of the case and two installation CDs. One CD is for windows XP and the other one is for windows Vista. In most cases, SATA drivers has to be installed before Windows installation for many motherboards using a floppy drive particularly under Windows XP. With windows Vista is possible to install the drivers using a USB jump Drive or using a CD. I read somewhere that for most Intel chipset motherboard, the drivers is already included in the Windows installation CD. Since I do not install a floppy for my installation this time, I chose to slipstream the drivers onto my Windows installation CD. I've done this using the freeware NLite downloaded from the web. Being an inexpensive motherboard it does not have solid state dry capacitors in the CPU power supply section instead conventional electrolytic capacitors with a temperature rating of 105°C. Also been a micro ATX form factor, it only has space for four slots instead of the usual seven while the standard ATX. The slots are as follow: number one slot, PCI express 16 X for video card. Number two slot, PCI

I've decided to use this code name Wolfdale retail kit, 45 nm Intel Core 2 Duo 6 MB, 3.16 GHz E8500 for this fast computer it was purchased also from newegg.com (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115036 ) for $189 with free shipping. This processor runs at 1333 MHz bus speed. Wolfdale processor core is 107sq.mm big and consists of 410 million transistors. These numbers suggests that Wolfdale has been changed significantly since the times of its predecessor - 65nm Conroe with only 291 million transistors. This processor also run relatively cool as compare with the predecessor and features. The on die cache memory has been increased from 4 MB to 6 MB and that probably account for the additional transistor count as compare to the predecessor. The chip supports C1E/Speedstep as well, which allows the chip to clock itself down to 2.0 GHz (6x multiplier) when processing levels are low. When processing loads kick up, the chip runs at 3.16 GHz (9.5x multiplier). This speedstep technology is quite similar to what you find on a laptop computer to really save power. Some new motherboards don’t support the .5x multipliers by default, which is the cause of most boards needing a BIOS update. If your motherboard doesn’t support half-step multipliers, the chip will boot up and run at 3.0 GHz (9.0x), which will allow you to get running and obtain a BIOS update. Apparently my motherboard's bios fully supports this processor and able to run at its full speed. On my set up, it also runs are extremely cool considering the skimpy included Intel heatsink and fan. The idle CPU temperature is just slightly above room temperature and at maximum 100% CPU utilization temperature did not exceed 45 °C at stock setting. The maximum safe CPU temperature is about 72.4 according to Intel. This is with the stock 15 mm thick heatsink which is about half the thickness of the one use on the 65nm Conroe core processor.

If you're into overclocking, be sure to buy the one with the new E0 instead of the earlier C0 core stepping which I have. It might be wise to ask the merchant before purchasing. This is much easier to do by going to a brick-and-mortar store instead of a store on the web. Since I'm not into overclocking it really doesn't matter to me, although I did try to overclock this chip slightly to 3.25 GHz. The result was a perfectly stable slightly faster computer. Even running at stock speed, I am fully satisfied with its performance. I think, when you're into overclocking be sure to buy a motherboard that supports it and better higher-speed memories such as PC2 8000 or better instead of which I have which is PC2 6400. Apparently my motherboard supports overclocking with one minor shortcome that the CPU core voltage is not adjustable. Since all Intel processor are multiplier locked, the only way to overclock them is to increase the front side bus which also increase the memory operating speed as well. I have the CPU with SLAPK code, pack date June 3, 2008 which is a core stepping C0 one unfortunately.

Other then these minor short comes, I am very satisfied with the performance of this CPU. I did a benchmark using Sandra to compared this system with my earlier hyper threading Pentium 4 Prescott 3.4 GHz system. This Core2 Duo 3.16 GHz system, according to the benchmark is approximately 2 2/3 times faster then my Pentium 3.4 GHz 4 system and yet uses less power overall. I notice, using this computer all of my applications opens much faster than before. The most remarkable thing about this computer is that the CPU is so efficient as compare with the predecessor. Take for instance, like comparing this system to a Pentium 4 one. Let's say hypothetically, a Pentium 4 Prescott chip at 3.4 GHz and this one having one of the core disable. This system with lower clock speed at 3.18 GHz would still be about 1.4 times faster than a Hyper Threading Pentium 4 Prescott chip at 3.4 GHz. And perhaps a system like this would only use about one third the power of a Pentium 4 system. My new Core2 Duo uses up to 65 Watts of power as compared what my old Prescott Pentium 4 at 3.4 GHz at 89 W.

I've bought this relatively long (9 1/4 inch) PCI PNY GeForce 9600 GT,, (512 MB) PCI Express Video Card also from new egg.com (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814133216 )for $97. This thing is relatively long, in fact longer than the width of my motherboard. It runs almost right up against the drive cage on the other side toward the front and may not fit in all computer cases. In my case, the six pin extra power connection actually occupied part of 1 hard drive space. Also, it is thicker than most standard single slot video card. So when you use this card, the slot below is consider occupied as well. Although, if the slot below is a PCI express 1X it may still be possible to use it with a very short card as long as it doesn't completely blocked the graphics card fan opening. Definitely not, if it's a standard PCI slot directly below below. A card like that below would completely blocked the fan opening and would definitely cause video card overheating. This is more critical when used with a micro-ATX motherboard because of its limited amount available slots. Lucky for me, the slot below happen to be a PCI express 1 X and not a standard PCI slot one like on many micro-ATX motherboards. Although I'm not a gamer, I feel that this graphic card is fast enough for most of the games out there in the market. Other than size, it was relatively easy to install on my computer. This retail kit comes with instructions, and installation CD with the drivers, connecting cables. The two monitor outputs in the back are DVI with TV out as well as cable for that. There is also an adapter for converting DVI to VGA. I did a benchmark with this using Video Card Stability Test utility version 1.0.0.3 and the resulting score was 430. My previous tests on an overclocked Nvidia G-force 7600 GT graphics card only scored 190 using the same program. This video card shows a score of more than double as compared with my previous graphics card. You can download this free program from http://www.free-stone group.com. This graphics card is relatively power-hungry at 98 W peak and that is the reason why you have to use the six pin extra 12 V power plug. Normally, a PCI express 16X slot itself supports up to 70 W without an additional power connector. And because of that, it is wise to have a high quality power supply with at least 400 W or better of continuous power for optimum system stability. My computer has an Antec 430 W triple rail power supply. It's able to supply 32 amps output at 12 V continuously on its three 12 V rails. One of the 16 amp rail just supply the graphics card only. Many lesser inexpensive power supply, even 500W models don't have this kind of output. The video bios is version 62.94 .11 .00 .51 dated May 14, 2008.

This video card is awesome when teamed with a multicore processor equipped computer. In my case, I use this with an Intel core 2 Duo 3.16 GHz E 8500 CPU. The fan on this video card is relatively quiet even under full load as compare with my two case fans. During my hundred percent GPU benchmark testing, I wasn't able to detect the fan noise from the graphics card. But under full load, this graphics card actually produces more heat than my CPU under full load. Under that condition, the GPU temperature approaches 85 °C. The red line temperature is 110 Celsius. Because of these conditions, it is wise to have plenty of case ventilation to cool down the computer when using a video card such as this. In my case, I have an intake fan right in front of the hard drives and video card and another one right below the power supply in the back for exhausting the hot air instead of relying on only one fan. And it also helps to have a relatively low power dissipation processor to keep down the heat. Or better yet, use a mid-tower case instead of a micro-tower one and be sure to select one that has the capability for both intake and exhaust fans. This PCI express video card would be an excellent addition to any computer with a fast multiple core CPU to take full advantage of stutter free high-speed video instead of relying on the onboard graphics. I am fully impressed with the capability of this video card. On motherboards with multiple PCI express 16X slots for video cards, you can link two of these video cards together for even more performance (SLI).

I've noticed recently there are a lot of forums on the web on bad Nvidia G92 and G94 chipsets, I hope I don't have one of them. It appears that a lot of people were having failures with their Nvidia graphics card that contain these chipsets. Their problems appears to be mostly heat related failures. I've went online to pny.com to register my product so that the warranty was extended another two years from the normal one-year warranty just in case of problems in the future. Because of these problems, I was no longer recommend this product for the time being. Also if I known this problem earlier, I wouldn't have made this purchase. Other than this, I still really like this video card's performance.

I've also use inexpensive G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory purchase also from newegg.com (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231122 ) for $66.99 with free shipping. These memories works extremely well at normal clock setting although I should have purchased better memory that will allow overclocking if I chose to do so. Other than this, I am fully satisfied with the performance. I've also run a benchmark memory test using Sandra Pro and the result was extremely good at 6.36 GB/s.
For the rest of this computer, the parts came off my previous computer such as the Antec triple rail 430 W power supply, two LG CD and DVD burners as well as the two Seagate 320 GB hard drives. Because my storage hard drive is an IDE one, I had to use a IDE to SATA converter which I purchased for less than nine dollars on eBay. This new motherboard only has a single IDE channel and its being used by the two optical drives leaving none for the IDE hard drive. As it turned out, this adapter did not work on an IDE hard drive. My computer wasn't able to recognize my IDE hard drive no matter what jumper I set it to, such as to cable select or master. I've decided to try it on an optical drive instead and it worked. I ended up converting my DVD burner to SATA instead with this adapter leaving me a free IDE port for my secondary IDE hard drive.

Update September 23, 2008: The IDE to SATA converter for my DVD burner is not too reliable so instead of buying another converter I've decided to hook the two optical drives back onto the single available IDE channel on the motherboard and replace my IDE storage drive with a SATA one instead. I've also noticed newegg.com (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148335) have a Seagate 640 GB hard drive for $80 with free shipping. The reviews on that site about this particular drive seem very favorable as far as speed and reliability so I just went ahead and order one today. The drive itself, is a double platter one having a density level of 320 GB per platter. The density level is exactly double that of my old drives.

Update September 30, 2008: I've managed to install this drive on my computer without any problems. The IDE Seagate 320 GB hard drive was moved back to the old Pentium 4 computer. Even though this is my fastest hard drive I decided to just use it as storage only. I've also install the third hard drive to use for trying out Windows Vista Ultimate on my new computer. Hooking up the third hard drive and running them all at the same time may have stressed my power supply a little bit. The new drive is somewhat sensitive to voltage fluctuation when it comes to SMART attributes. My drive was originally at 100% right now degraded to 97% because of a poor connection or weak power supply causes the SMART attributes to go down. The problem I believed, was caused by a bad power supply connector. I've since stopped using that particular power connector anymore. That SATA connector is very loose possibly causing a bad connection or power supply overload on the 5 V rail. Also, at the time I had three SATA hard drives hooked up in my computer. My old power supply's output on the 5 V rail has only has a maximum of 15 amps and with the triple 12 V rails at 32 amps total. This attribute will be permanently registered on this particular drive even though the drive is performing perfectly. I am replacing my power supply on my computer with a more powerful one of the same make but of the next model upgrade. This new one has an output up 24 amps on the 5 V rail and 42 amps on the triple 12 V rails. The power supply that I will be using is the Antec TruePower Trio 550. I’ve already placed an order for this power supply. from http://www.buy.com/prod/antec-truepower-trio-550w-sli-ready-power-supply... .The new power supply arrivaled on October 5, 2008 and was installed the very day The old 330 W Antec power supply was removed and reinstall back onto my old Pentium 4 computer. With this new power supply, the voltage regulation is extremely good under both light and heavy load. In fact practically no variations at all with the 12 V rail remaining at 12.06 Volts the 5V rail at 4.95 V and the 3.3 V rail at 3.28 V.

Windows Vista Ultimate Edition was fresh installed on my old MDT 200 GB hard drive as Disk number 2 with Windows XP Pro as repaired installation on my Seagate 320 GB hard drive as disk number 1 and my new Seagate 640 GB configured as storage only. in order to select the boot from one hard drive to the other during booting I have to press delete to go into the bios and then change the boot order to select the other hard drive and then save the change.

Windows Vista with SP1 works extremely well on this new computer except for this one major problem that I am having, it blue screens whenever I plug in my portable USB hard drive. But it is okay when I tried another USB hard drive on it. That USB hard drive that causes the problem contain the AIi chipset while the other one which is an USB 2 to IDE hard drive adapter and I wouldn't know what's inside it because it doesn't come apart. This identical problem occur on this new computer as well as my old Pentium 4 computer. I even try to simply leaving that USB hard drive connected to my computer when booting up and it would blue screen over and over in a loop until I disconnected it from the computer. But it works fine with this USB hard drive, after I've uninstalled Windows Vista SP1 from my computers. With my old computer I thought it was caused by incompatible drivers but with this new computer it exhibit the same symptoms. After all, this new one is designed with Windows Vista in mind. So perhaps, the problem is simply caused by a conflicting driver in Windows Vista SP1. Presently, my new computer is set up as dual-boot mode using separate hard drives for each operating system. I have windows XP Pro on my Seagate 320 GB hard drive with Windows Vista Ultimate on my MDT 200 GB and my new Seagate 640 GB hard drive as storage only. With this arrangement, the only way to switch operating system is to go into the bios and switch boot order for OS selection. Only reason why I chose this method is so the operating systems can operate independently without having the other drives connected to the system for it to function. Also, when the installing operating systems I had the other bootable hard drive containing Windows disconnected to prevent Windows from rewriting all of the MBR on to one hard drive. I would reconnect the other drives afterward.

Other than the aforementioned problem with Windows Vista SP1, the result is an extremely pleasant to use and extremely fast computer which I will fully enjoy for years to come. I will update this as I learn more about this system in the future.

Update January 27, 2009: Since my computer is set up as dual boot, I've decided to just simply use Vista exclusively. Because of problems with some drivers and devices in its original form as well as with SP1, I've decided to try out Vista SP2 beta. Vista with SP2 beta works much better as far stability with less problems. This is especially true with USB connectivity with devices and network connectivity as well. I am happy to report that so far that after installing SP2 beta, I didn't get any BSOD. I am hoping that when Microsoft finally release the public release version of Vista SP2, that it would be even better. As far as USB connectivity with devices, I am still having minor problems connecting my MP3 music player to my computer although it's much better. Sometimes when I connect my MP3 player, the computer would hang with 100 percent CPU utilization. The only way for me to restore operation was forced rebooting of my computer. This problem is more severe with the original edition of Windows Vista. One way for me to get around this problem is simply, to turn on my music player and then connect it to my computer before booting up my computer. This is one way for me to get my computer to recognize my music player. This problem is much less severe with windows XP Pro than it is with Windows Vista.

The other problem I had with Windows Vista with SP2 beta is losing Internet connectivity with my web browsers in about half hour or so of web browsing. Although when it happens, everything else still have Internet connectivity such as my e-mail client as well as network access. When that happened, doing a way for me to restore operation was rebooting the computer. I found out the problem with that was caused by incompatibility under Vista with SP2 with Avast 4.8 and Zone Alarm Pro 8. I've decided to uninstall Zone Alarm and install the latest edition of Comodo firewall. After installing Comodo firewall, the computer didn't have that problem of losing Internet connectivity anymore. The free Comodo software program is really a security suite with antiviral as well. The Comodo installer allows you, during installation to install either the firewall or antiviral or both if you wish. I didn't try their antiviral because I wanted to stick with Avast.

I am happy to report that with SP2 beta that no more BSOD, when connecting my external hard drive. Faster file transfer between computers on the network and more pleasant usage of this computer with more program functionality. The only unpleasantness of this computer now is the nagging prompts from the Comodo firewall. The prompts will diminish in time as Comodo learns how I use my computer. I had this problem with the earlier version of Comodo Pro firewall as well.

Updated November 18, 2009: I've upgraded this computer to Windows 7 Ultimate running Windows Virtual PC with Windows XP Mode. I am running both the 32-bit and 64-bit versions one on each hard drives. I have three hard drives on this system, the one terabyte Seagate hard drive is used for storage only, the 320 GB Seagate is used for the 64-bit version and the 200 GB MDT hard drive is used for the 32-bit version of Windows 7. The 64-bit version is able to utilize all of my RAM at 4 GB, but requires little bit more memory to run the same programs. With 32-bit versions of Windows from windows XP to Windows 7 only up to 3 GB of RAM can be utilized by the system.

I did encounter several hurdles with Windows 7. Unlike any of the previous OS, when installing Windows 7 be sure to disconnect any other hard drive you have in your system before installing. I found out the hard way, particularly with the 64-bit version. After the installation, I found out most of my data stored on the storage hard drive was no longer accessible. When I tried to open it, it will prompt "you don't have permission to these files". If I persist to try to access it it would give me another prompt" access is denied". Although, few of these files can be changed as far as ownership and permission indirectly. But there are a few files that insist on not allowing me access to all no matter how I tried. Luckily most of these files are also backed up on the external hard drive. I decided it would have been better for me to just simply wipe the hard drive and start over again. It appears that Windows 7 has a much higher security protocol in any other previous OS. I repeat, be sure to disconnect any other hard drive on the computer before installing. Also install it on a single petition hard drive. The other problem is a few of my programs aren't compatible with this new operating system particularly the 64-bit version. Unlike any of the previous operating system, most hardware drivers are included in the installation DVD such as video drivers, WiFi card drivers, ethernet card drivers, sound card drivers and many other drivers that your hardware would need. The rest can be downloaded from Windows update when you're connected to the Internet. Unlike Vista, Windows 7 works much better from the very beginning with no BSOD during installation or use.

I had to reinstall the 64-bit version several times before I got it right. When I finally got it right, I made a backup copy stored on my storage data hard drive using Seagate's free Disc Wizard. When I tried to install a non-compatible program Windows would give me a prompt advising me not to install it or in some cases refuse to install. A few of the noncompatible program would install anyway but mess up the installation to a point where I have to reinstall the OS. Under this circumstance, the Seagate's Disc Wizard is a lifesaver for me. Using This program it only takes me about 20 minutes to fully restore my computer again instead of days. For the noncompatible programs, I can use Windows Virtual PC running Windows XP Mode. When running XP Mode, the computer behaves like Windows XP Pro SP 3. Under that condition, you can install any program that works on Windows XP. In order to use Virtual PC, the CPU on your computer has to support Virtual Mode. For Intel, almost all of the Core 2 Duo would work. For dual core Pentiums, only the top and one would work. For AMD, only their later ones will work. Also to use the 64-bit version, the CPU has to support 64-bit mode.

The 32-bit version is more forgiving when it comes to installing programs without messing up the OS. The 32-bit version is somewhat slower than the 64-bit on the same computer when running some programs. I've tried this version on three of my computers already and the performance is much better than Windows Vista. Windows 7 is much more stable than Windows Vista by far. The hardware requirement for Windows 7 is identical to Windows Vista. On the same computer, Windows 7 appears to use less RAM for the same function and programs.

For the 64-bit version of Windows 7, in order to install the print driver for my old HP DeskJet 932C using Windows update. I had to set Windows update to allow automatic updating before it would work. The printer is actually installed on another computer on the network. I had to temporarily move the printer to connect directly with this computer to do the updating so I can use it to print. This step is not necessary for the 32-bit version. On that version, the print driver will install even for a remote printer on the network.

Finally, this computer is extremely enjoyable to use with this improvement.